Unscrew the nuts with a ratchet. Start where your exhaust pipe connects to the engine at the front of your vehicle. Choose a ratchet bit that matches the size of the nuts holding the exhaust system to your vehicle. Apply firm pressure as you rotate the nut since it may be stuck or locked in tightly. Continue unscrewing the rest of the nuts if the pieces of your exhaust system are held together by other bolts or clamps. Unhook the pipes from the rubber exhaust hangers.
Support the exhaust pipe with your nondominant hand as you slide the metal pin out from the rubber. Slowly and carefully take the other pins off so the exhaust system comes loose from the body of your vehicle. Pull the exhaust system down from your vehicle. Slowly take the exhaust system from the catalytic converter to the tailpipe and lower it to the ground. Do not drive your vehicle while you have the exhaust system removed since it may be illegal in your area and you will release harmful fumes.
Part 3. Get a new exhaust system that matches the make and model of your vehicle. The system will contain the main exhaust pipe, catalytic converters, a muffler, and tailpipe.
Order the exhaust system you want so you can install it on your vehicle. For example, if you have a dual-exhaust engine, then you need a system that has 2 exhaust ports. If your old exhaust system went over your rear axle, then get an exhaust system that comes in multiple pieces so you can easily install it. Clean the rust off of the bolt threads with a wire cleaning brush. Try to get the most rust off of the threadings as possible so you can easily screw and unscrew the nuts on them.
Apply anti-seize fluid on all of the bolt threadings. Put the anti-seize fluid on your finger and rub it around the threadings of the bolt. Lift the new exhaust system into place using your jack. Keep lifting the exhaust system until the end of the pipe lines up with the port on the downpipe, which comes down from the engine and connects to the entire system.
Part 4. Place a gasket over the downpipe with one of the bolts. A gasket is a thin piece that fits between pipes to prevent any leaks from escaping the connection. Hold the port at the end of the downpipe steady and lay the gasket on top of it. Slide one of the bolts through the downpipe and gasket so the threaded end points toward the rear of your vehicle.
Attach the front of the exhaust system loosely to the downpipe with the bolts. Position the end of the new exhaust pipe with the port on the downpipe so the bolt holes line up. Connect sections of your system with exhaust clamps, if needed. Get exhaust clamps, which are metal loops that you can tighten around pipes to hold them together, from your local hardware or automotive store. Tighten the clamp with a ratchet so it holds the pieces tightly. You may also have extension pipes that connect between some of the pieces.
In some cases, you may need to weld the pieces together rather than use clamps, so see what the manufacturer recommends. Plug the oxygen sensors back into the ports on your vehicle. Locate the small holes in the sides of the exhaust pipe near the front axle of your vehicle. Slide the old oxygen sensors back into the holes and tighten them by hand by turning the bolts clockwise. Thanks, Irvine! Hope it worked for you, Guillermo!
Great article — just proves that mechanical stuff can be fun. How did you keep the baffles tight inside the fishtails? Did they extend all the way to the end of the muffler where the fishtail shape starts? Thank you! Yes, fishtails are LOUD! We wrapped chicken wire around the baffle but some kind of mesh wire would do, perhaps even screen door type of stuff and then wrapped Adrenaline R grade stainless wool around it, laced on with fine wire and twisted a bit so the whole lash-up could be wound into the pipes from the front end.
The washer welded to the end of the baffle pipe stops the whole thing from blowing out the back so far, anyway. Thanks, Chris! The new pipes are much better suited to the style of the bike I think. Appreciate your comment. Hmm, not sure about that, John; we got a little brown leather one custom made; your dealer should be able to tell you hopefully?
Loud Motorcycles? Thanks for your passionate and detailed comment, Rickey. Had them on my Honda scrambler. Hole through the pipe…. Picture it inserted in the end of the pipe…. Maybe out here somewhere, someone still makes them. A cleaver DIYer could do it. Yep, if you had the bits and pieces and the patience you could probably pull this off.
Thanks for the suggestion! Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information. Push the upper end of the header pipe and header clamp against the exhaust manifold. Rotate the header clamp so the compression bolt is facing in.
This gives the exhaust a tidy appearance. Tighten the compression bolt clockwise with the socket and ratchet. Align the holes on the muffler clamp with the exhaust mount on the motorcycle frame. Insert the saved bolt through the exhaust clamp and exhaust mount. Thread the saved nut on the bolt clockwise and tighten the nut with the socket and ratchet. Position the heat shield against the tabs on a scrambler exhaust muffler.
Tips Adding baffles to drag pipes is a good way to preserve the back pressure and decibel level of the bike while giving it the clean look associated with drag pipes. Use caution when drilling the pipe. Losing control of the drill bit while drilling can allow the bit to "walk" across the surface of the pipe and damage the chrome finish, causing unsightly scratches or peeling of the chrome plating.
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